Schmoozeby in India

This is the story of my travels in India from December 2006 to January 2007.
16 destinations. 22 train journeys. Over 2000 snaps. And 8 movies. All in 30 days.
My blog covers most of my experiences, adventures and moments on the move. Understandably, I have left out quite a few adventures, especially the ones that can’t be shared on a public domain. Also, there are a lot of moments, which words or pictures failed to capture.

India is such an amazing country, and I don’t think one can ever be done seeing and experiencing ‘incredible India’. Last, but not the least, this blog is written from the perspective of a hardcore ‘rail-fan’ – so please bear with constant references to ‘the stunning Erode WDM2* at the helm of the 7229 Sabari Express effortlessly notched up the gradient….’ – just kidding!!!, I don’t think there is such a line anywhere in my memoirs. Rail-fanning offers a great avenue to explore large stretches of India, at less time, energy and money. You haven’t seen the world, if you haven’t seen India. I look forward to your comments, and queries, if any. Thank you for visiting my blog.

*WDM2 – One of India’s finest diesel locomotives (See the above snap). Often called the workhorse of Indian Railways. Has a power output of 2600HP and is designed for mixed traffic service, passenger or freight. Geared for a maximum speed of 120 Kmph.

Here are the links to my travelogue:
Thursday, 7 Dec 2006: Delhi beckons
Friday, 8 Dec 2006: Delhi Deewana
Saturday, 9 Dec 2006: Down in Delhi
Sunday, 10 Dec 2006: Adieu to Delhi
Monday, 11 Dec 2006: A ride on the Brahmaputra Mail
Tuesday, 12 Dec 2006: A date with the Gods in Varanasi
Wednesday, 13 Dec 2006: Crossing India's heartland
Thursday, 14 Dec 2006: Mumbai madness, Konkan respite
Friday, 15 Dec 2006: An encounter with Bharathapuzha
Saturday, 16 Dec 2006: Rail-fanning in Cochin
Sunday, 17 Dec 2006: Killer Kovalam
Monday, 18 Dec 2006: Konkan, here I come!
Tuesday, 19 Dec 2006: Schmoozeby hits Goa!
Wednesday, 20 Dec 2006: The Miramar Magic
Thursday, 21 Dec 2006: Calangute comes calling...
Friday, 22 Dec 2006: Mangalore Siesta
Saturday, 23 Dec 2006: Wandering Ministrel in Mangalore
Sunday, 24 Dec 2006: Disaster at Pollachi!
Monday, 25 Dec 2006: Santa visits Kodaikanal
Tuesday, 26 Dec 2006: Adventure in the Kodai Forests
Wednesday, 27 Dec 2006: Taking a Break
Thursday - Saturday, 28 – 30 Dec 2006: The Cochin Sojourn & How to haggle in India
Sunday, 31 Dec 2006: The Ashtamudi Lake Cruise
Monday, 1 Jan 2007: Happy New Year!
Tuesday, 2 Jan 2007: Bits & Bytes from Bangalore
Wednesday, 3 Jan 2007: Blighted in Bangalore
Thursday, 4 Jan 2007: Toddy time at Thirumullavaram
Friday, 5 Jan 2007: Finding solitude at Paravur Lake
Saturday, 6 Jan 2007: Rail-fanning in Kollam, Kerala
Sunday, 7 Jan 2007: Back to Muscat

Thursday, 7 Dec 2006: Delhi beckons

Left Muscat for New Delhi on WY 845 at 3am. The flight departed an hour late due to some problems with loading baggage. Arrived New Delhi in the morning, 30 minutes after scheduled arrival, in near fog-like conditions. Completed immigration and waited in the arrival terminal for a friend who was to travel with me over the next few days. Once we met up, we got prepaid cell connections from the Airtel booth at the airport. Took a cab from the airport prepaid taxi counter, and finally discovered Smyle Inn – the budget hotel we stayed in at Chandiwalan, Main Bazaar Road, Paharganj next to New Delhi Railway Station.
The ride was bumpy, yet adventurous. Checked in, had difficulty catching up sleep, and spent the evening navigating the dingy, but hectic alleys of Paharganj.
Went exploring Connaught Circle later. Watched Casino Royale at the Rivoli. Really swanky theatre; was pretty amazed at the level of security! Ate from a Punjabi Dhaba, and went to sleep with MTV blaring in the background.

To view more snaps from New Delhi, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'New Delhi' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Friday, 8 Dec 2006: Delhi Deewana

Decided to explore New Delhi Railway Station which is just a few minutes walk from the hotel. Was greeted by the glorious sight of a stunning Vatva WDM2 beast lugging the Ahmedabad Rajdhani which had earlier arrived on platform 1. Felt a tremendous adrenaline rush… later got to the International Tourist Bureau to pick up the INDRAIL pass. Was advised by the helpful officer that it’s always best to buy the pass, after pre-booking all journeys. Since my journey plans weren’t clear as of then, didn’t end up buying the pass.

Later went on a 1-day package tour of New Delhi that cost around 150 Rs. Clicked my first snap since my visit to India. Visited Red Fort, India Gate, Raj Ghat, Parliament House, Qutab Minar, Bahai Lotus Temple and Iskon Temple. The sights on the road were pretty interesting. Gave an impression of Delhi as a city with a lot of buzz, even thought it was quite unclean. Got back late in the evening. Felt ill the entire day, as I was coming down with a terrible cold and fever.

Apparently a cold wave was on in Delhi, with the mercury dipping down to 6.5 degree Celsius, the coldest day that season. I had gone to Delhi quite unprepared without appropriate winter wear for this chilly weather, and it was no surprise that I fell ill. Crashed into bed after hogging tabs.

And oh yes, let me describe my ‘Vicks trick’, that came in handy during my Delhi sojourn. I always kept dabbing Vicks ointment around my nostrils, during my bout with cold. Gradually I realised that it kept me immune from the stench in streets of Delhi, especially in Paharganj. The Vicks stayed with me, even after the cold went away. Thus, I basked in a blissful ‘vicks generated aura’ wherever I went.

To view more snaps from New Delhi, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'New Delhi' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Saturday, 9 Dec 2006: Down in Delhi

Missed the sightseeing trip to Agra to catch the Taj and Agra fort. Spent the better part of the day fighting a lonesome battle against cold and fever. Managed to venture out to the IGIA (Indira Gandhi International Airport) to speak to the Airtel guys regarding my prepaid connection which they hadn’t activated as of then. Took an auto rickshaw to the airport from New Delhi Railway Station, asked the driver to wait for me, while I promised to return within 5 minutes. Came back to discover that he left without taking his fare from me. Watched him scoot away with another passenger, as I yelled in my frail voice for him to come back. Felt quite amused! The Airtel connection kicked itself to life in the afternoon. And then broke into cold sweat when I discovered that my ATM card from India wasn’t working! Thanked God for my NBO Card, which I promptly used to take some cash. You bet they charged me crazy for that. :(
Took a much anticipated joy ride on the Delhi Metro from one end to the other in the evening. Enjoyed it tremendously… hats off to Delhi for coming up with such a marvellous transit system. Hit Connaught Place in the evening, dined at Berco’s, a swanky Chinese restaurant. Nothing better than Tom Yum soup for a soul down with the flu!

To view more snaps from New Delhi, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'New Delhi' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Sunday, 10 Dec 2006: Adieu to Delhi

Spent the better part of the day exploring Connaught Place. Was among the first customers at McDonalds in the morning. Three cheers to the veggie burger. Went to New Delhi Railway Station to get tickets for our journey to Varanasi the next day. Was told that all trains were running full and was asked to come back three hours before the departure of a particular super fast train we wanted to catch. Headed to Connaught Place which had become our regular jaunt by then. Ate at TGI’s late afternoon. I gulped down a Mojito, while my friend devoured pasta and beer. Took the metro to Chanakyapuri and then had a round in a cycle rickshaw. Came back to New Delhi Rly Station, braved the long queues, the unbearable heat and put on a brave front as we were told there were no tickets available in Sleeper or AC classes on our train. Was recommended to see if Delhi Station had tickets. Took the metro to Delhi, stood in the long queue only to be told there were no seats. Was finally approached by a tout, who got us tickets on the Brahmaputra Mail to Mughalsarai which is 16 odd kilometres from Varanasi. Bought them with some trepidation, as I was kinda worried if they were bogus. Also felt quite annoyed about this criminal practice where railway officials told passengers that there were no tickets, but sold them to touts. Headed back to New Delhi by metro rail, got our baggage and then headed back to Delhi Station in an autorickshaw. Saw numerous marriage processions on the road (baarat). Apparently it was the most auspicious day in the Hindu calendar to get married. And then it rained! Ran into a quite swanky eatery at Delhi station, couldn’t help laughing out aloud hearing another of those funny radiomirchi ads. Tucked into a sombre plate of curd rice…

To view more snaps from New Delhi, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'New Delhi' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Tuesday, 12 Dec 2006: A date with the Gods in Varanasi

Woke up early to begin our tour of Varanasi aka Banaras aka Kashi (which means luminous), the oldest continuously inhabited city on Earth, supposedly founded by the Hindu deity Shiva. Navigated the narrow and winding alleys to get to the Ghats. Jostled for space with the cows. The atmosphere was very relaxing, soothing, almost felt like being surrounded by the Gods. Went to the Ghats, rented a boat for 600 Rs for a ride on the holy Ganges along the ghats. The atmosphere was filled with the scent of holy fragrance, religious chants and a breezy wind. Went to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, was amazed by its gold covered roof. As I repeated the mantras told by the priests and made an offering, I felt like on top of the world.

The boat ride was interesting. Was regaled by tales of Varanasi and the Ghats by the boatman. There is a ghat in Varanasi called Narada Ghat, where only buffaloes bathe. It seems that any couple who bathes together in that Ghat will never know peace for the rest of their lives. Even watched a bloated dead body float by, a very scary feeling. A passing boatman commented – Sab ka gathi yahi hoga (this is the fate that awaits everyone). Loved the shudh hindi / Bhojpuri dialect of people in Varanasi. Ate breakfast from a Kerala restaurant in Varanasi which has been there for over 50 years!


Visited Banaras Hindu University, famous temples in Varanasi such as Durga and Birla Temples before setting out to Sarnath where Buddha preached his first sermon. Was awed by the Dhamek Stupa, a stunning monument paying tribute to Buddhism. Visited the Japanese temple and learnt how to say Budham Saranam Gachami… in Japanese! Fed carrots to the deer at Sarnath Deer Park. Did some rail-fanning in Varanasi Railway Station, even caught some junkies sniffing glue at the outskirts of the platforms. Didn’t hang around a lot… the guys were intimidating. Got back to the Hotel, indulged in a lavish traditional Kerala Ayurvedic massage, felt like ready to take over the world. Got on the Ratnagiri Superfast at 8.45pm. Mumbai beckoned.

To view more snaps from Varanasi, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Varanasi' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Wednesday, 13 Dec 2006: Crossing India's heartland

The 1482km ride on the Ratnagiri Superfast was interesting. Was quite hassled by a drunk co-passenger who was mad at me for exchanging my berth with a German traveller. He had asked me for the same berth, but I had absent-mindedly told him no. The German dude took out his guitar and strummed on as a crowd of curious onlookers gathered around him. Indulged in idle chit-chat with Rajneesh Kumar, a medical representative working in Allahabad, and the son of a railway guard. Found pleasure in swapping tales about raunchy SMS forwards. A new day began as the double WDM2 headed train ran from North India to Central and then Western India, as I soaked in the landscapes outside. I settled into John Grisham’s first work of non-fiction – An Innocent Man – didn’t enjoy it much. Bought a joke book from Itarsi. Laughed to myself frequently and had fellow passengers wondering what had gone wrong with me. Later, had fun explaining how flash-memory based mp3 players worked to a group of street urchins who had boarded the train in the evening. We stopped at Allahabad, Satna, Jabalpur, Itarsi, Bhusaval, Jalgaon, Manmad, Nasik Road, Igatpuri and Kalyan before reaching Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (LTT) around 11pm, after a 26 hour journey. Caught an auto rickshaw from LTT, spent some time looking for rooms, apparently most hotels were full. Finally checked into Hotel Plaza at Sion, quite expensive for its modest amenities.

To view more snaps from Central India, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Central India' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Thursday, 14 Dec 2006: Mumbai madness, Konkan respite

Set out from the hotel to Mumbai CST (Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the erstwhile Victoria Terminus) on a ubiquitous Mumbai local train to see if I could get the IndRail pass finally. Was the first person at CST when the International Tourist Bureau counter opened. They didn’t have the pass for the number of days I wanted. Was asked to go Churchgate Station. Took a bus ride to Churchgate, clicked a few snaps of the BMC / BEST double decker buses on my way. Got there only to find that they didn’t have any IndRail pass.

Finally got a 3AC ticket on the 6345 Lokmanya Tilak Terminus – Trivandrum Netravathi Express for the same day to Kollam Junction, Kerala. Was told by the queer lady who wore two spectacles at the ticket counter that I wouldn’t make it on time for the train that was departing at 11.40am. Decided to cover Churchgate – CST – Sion - LTT in trains, and thus avoid the rush hour on the roads. Thus began a mad dash, hopping from local train to local train, before reaching LTT around 20 minutes before departure. Phew! The rides were exciting… masses of people flowing in and out of trains that went like arrows helter skelter. The crowds were pretty ok, though I desisted from boarding trains that were jam packed. Felt goose bumps when I thought these very trains – the lifelines of Mumbai – where hit by the 2006 bomb blasts.

Netravathi Express took off on time, with an Erode WDM2 at the helm. Kollam was 1734km and 30 hours away. Had to take snaps of two kids who ran alongside my coach on a parallel track, they so desperately wanted me to click them. The ride was spectacular, with fascinating landscapes and superb curves. Konkan Railway is an unbelievable experience with its lush greenery, long tunnels, imposing mountains, expansive water bodies. You can see quiet villages from the train.

The train halted at Panvel, Chiplun, Ratnagiri, Madgaon, Canacona, Karwar, Bhatkal, Udupi and Kankanadi before reaching Kasaragod in Kerala next day, early morning. Went berserk with the camera taking snaps, even took a video of the Konkan Jana Shatabdi, one of the fastest trains in Konkan Railway, whiz by. All said, Konkan is a must-see for every rail-fan. See it to believe it. Experience it to enjoy it!

To view more snaps from Mumbai and Konkan, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Mumbai' or 'Konkan' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Friday, 15 Dec 2006: An encounter with Bharathapuzha

Nethravathi Express entered Kerala early morning. Took some good snaps of the famous Bharathapuzha River in Kerala. Listened to a fellow passenger talk about how beautiful the river was back in the years and its sad condition now. It appears that sand mining has taken the gloss off this beautiful river. He was helpful in showing me good spots to take snaps of along the way. I particularly loved this station called Vallathol Nagar which is close to Shoranur. It is an ideal location for rail photography with its curvaceous platforms. A lanky gentleman sat next to me in the coach. Came to know later that he was Tom Joseph, the captain of India’s National Volleyball team. Nethravathi buzzed through North Kerala like a bullet, before reaching Ernakulam in the afternoon, and then ran through scenic Alleppey and one of my favourite scenic spots - Thakazhi before reaching Kollam in the evening. My camera didn’t remain idle.

To view more snaps from Kerala, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Kerala' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Saturday, 16 Dec 2006: Rail-fanning in Cochin

Woke up early morning to catch the 4.20am Kollam – Ernakulam Passenger to Cochin. Pretty uneventful ride. Went to my bank to get my ATM card issue sorted out. Took a boat ride along the Marine Drive towards the ship yard and back. Sat down with a palmist at the Marine Drive just for the heck of it. She reeled off my past with such accuracy that I soon vanished from the scene. But, highly recommended, it’s not every day that you have a total stranger narrate the worst about you for 100 Rs! Had lunch at Bimbees, my favourite restaurant at Cochin. Got a 3AC ticket for Kollam on the 2511 Gorakhpur – Trivandrum Raptisagar Express, which has now taken the avatar of a super fast. Clicked some snaps of engines at Ernakulam Junction. Ran into a lil pup who had its leg ran over by a passing engine. A Railway Mail Service (RMS) worker picked up the howling animal from the bushes and gave it some water. The thankful beast was last seen tagging along with his new friend. Hated the journey, the coach had a stench about it, and I watched a rat hop around. The bright point in this trip was meeting a lovely IIT professor with an incredible sense of humour.

To view more snaps from Kerala, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Kerala' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Sunday, 17 Dec 2006: Killer Kovalam

Slept most part of the day. The travel bug bit again. Goa it was. Went to Trivandrum in the afternoon with a friend to book my ticket. Hated the bus ride in KSRTC. Walked into the reservation office at Trivandrum Central Railway Station just when they closed down reservation at 2pm. Came back with the vital information that there were seats on a special train to Dadar departing next day. Went to Kovalam beach, a famous tourist attraction in God’s Own Country – Kerala and then later to the Museum and Zoo. Didn’t find Kovalam to be that interesting. More hyped than substance. Wonder how tourists can get to chill in peace on the quite small beach, with hawkers out to hassle you all the time. Loved the Zoo, got some snaps of the animals. Got really pissed at a group of visitors who threw stones at a leopard sleeping on a tree to wake it up. Felt like feeding them to the poor beast. May not have been a good idea, cuz probably they would have eaten up the leopard. Got back to Kollam by bus. Pretty quiet day otherwise, went for a Malayalam movie – Mohanlal starrer Baba Kalyani in the evening…

To view more snaps from Kerala, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Kerala' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'. To check out my wildlife snaps, type 'fauna'.

Monday, 18 Dec 2006: Konkan, here I come!

Took the early morning 6348 Mangalore Express to Trivandrum to book my ticket to Madgaon. It is always easier to get a ticket from the originating station of your train, especially on the day of your journey, at least three hours before departure. You pay a lil extra for this facility. It is called as EQ or Emergency Quota in railway parlance. Met with the guard, who is a really close friend, rode with him in his cabin. Visited the Running Bungalow, railway quarters in Trivandrum Central. Got a 3AC ticket on the 168 Trivadrum – Dadar Express Holiday Special train, thanks to his efforts. Rushed back to Kollam on the Mumbai bound 6346 Nethravathi Express, again. The guard was yet another friend, and took a ride with him in the brake van. Got back to Kollam just two hours before my train to Madgaon. Ran around to get my baggage sorted, rode on a bike at breakneck speed and reached the station just as the train bound to Dadar, Mumbai thundered onto platform no. 5.

Took quite a few snaps of my train and crossing trains on a ride that lasted 1005kms. Thought about the merits and the demerits of travelling in AC class vis-à-vis Sleeper class. It doesn’t make much sense to travel in AC especially in winter. Also, you can’t enjoy much of the scenery through the darkened windows. However, you can make most of the complimentary bedrolls and pillows, and privacy you get in the AC class. You can hang about the doors with your camera and click away to glory. Even the loos are much cleaner. However, in sleeper coaches, you can get to enjoy the scenery and click snaps from your window. And it is much cheaper, when compared to AC classes. But getting tickets in sleeper class for last minute travel can be quite a hassle.

To view more snaps from Kerala and Konkan, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Kerala' or 'Konkan' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Tuesday, 19 Dec 2006: Schmoozeby hits Goa!

Watched the sun rise, as the train sped fast over the Sharavati River on the longest bridge in Konkan Railway near Honnavar in Karnataka. Chatted up to a British family who shared my sentiments regarding Kovalam. A fellow passenger was kind enough to share ‘dope’ on Goa – what to see and where to go. Vital information which came in much handy, later! Got down the train and posed for snaps as we waited long for a train to cross us. The almost deserted train trundled into Madgaon around 11am.

Posed for a pic next to the Kalyan WDM2 with my backpack, Pepsi bottle, et al. Trudged straight into the reservation office, to book my return ticket to Kannur (Cannanore) in North Kerala. Was told that all trains were full. So took a ticket to Mangalore which is close to Kannur. Got a bike taxi outside Madgaon Station. The driver, a Keralite himself, added onto the useful knowledge accumulated on Goa. Made my travel plans on the bike. He insisted that I take notes! It was going to be North Goa. Travelled from Madgaon to Kadamba bus stand. From there to Panjim. And then decided to take life on the road as it came. The ride to Panjim was exciting. The landscape bore much semblance to Kerala. Kingfisher billboards adorned the landscape… wherever you went there was Kingfisher. A fitting tribute to Goa – the land of good times. And then there were the Hutch hoardings. Wherever you go, our network follows. Very much ironical, as my Hutch connection never worked outside Kerala. Thus, Hutch hoardings were always an eyesore. Met a lady on my bus ride from Panjim to Miramar, where I wanted to stay. She too became my ‘Goa Guide’.

Like providence would have it, I got dropped right in front of the Miramar Residency, at the Miramar beach. Checked into a cosy cottage. Had lunch and then explored Panjim in the afternoon. Took a ride on the Mandovi River in a ferry. Even indulged in some shopping. Scoured Panjim’s lanes for the famed INOX theatre. Finally discovered it and watched Kabul Express. So-So. Decided to hit Calangute next day.

To view more snaps from Goa and Konkan, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Goa' or 'Konkan' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Wednesday, 20 Dec 2006: The Miramar Magic

arunWoke up early morning to catch the sunrise at the idyllic Miramar beach. Took a long walk on the beach while plugged into music. Watched the barges lugging iron ore sail by, dogs chase each other and birds swoop around. Felt like the happiest soul on Earth. :) Left for Calangute in the afternoon. Managed to find a decent room in Calangute Residency, albeit just for a day. Was OK with me! Apparently the season was beginning two days later, when room rents were set to soar. Booked myself for a guided North Goa tour for the next day. Soon hit Calangute Beach, my first real beach experience in Goa. Was great, walked from Calangute to Baga, not before dashing off for a jet-ski ride. Devoured seafood from numerous joints on the beach. Wondered how my tummy shaped up into an endless pit. Picked up some fancy beaded jewellery on the beach for a bargain price. Wandered along the beach still sun dipped into the sea… dined late evening at Suiza Lobo, very much recommended. All nightclubs were closed down, owing to some security threat. Snuggled into bed, MTV still blaring.

To view more snaps from Goa, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Goa' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Thursday, 21 Dec 2006: Calangute comes calling...

Took a morning walk along the Calangute beach. Was more crowded than Miramar. Went for my GTDC organised North Goa tour that cost 140 Rs. Visited the Shri Saptakoteshwar Temple at Narva, Mayem Lake, Mapusa, followed by the beaches of Vagator and Anjuna. Didn’t go boating in Mayem Lake, but clicked scores of snaps of a plucky herd of ducks and the flora at Mayem. Found the guide to be excellent, and learnt a lot of things on Goa from him. Loved the beach at Vagator, with its bevy of topless babes. Even ran into an ‘eight-legged bull’ and its companions.

Picked up my first dhol (drum), at a handsome price after some shameless haggling. Had a hippie look about me and I could feel the ever-present grin on my face growing wider. Got myself photographed by a Swiss ‘chocolate’ on the rocks, tried hard to get her daughter in the frame. Succeeded only in squeezing her bum in.J Anjuna has a special place in Goa’s history, as it is the first beach where the hippies landed, putting Goa on the international tourist map. Today the sea has reclaimed most of the beach and this very rocky, hazardous beach doesn’t attract visitors compared to Calangute or Vagator.


However, the Wednesday flea market in Anjuna is still alive and kicking. Go to seedy dealers on Anjuna beach if you want to gamble… and loose all you got. Decided to miss the trip to Port Aguada and got down at Calangute. Went on a dolphin watching cruise, got to see those lovely creatures toss their flippers and play hide and seek with us. Was the only one in the group to get them on film. Well, at least their fins. They can be incredibly fast… and can do without the attention. Got myself two temporary tattoos… and then visited Suiza Lobo to bid bye to Goa and have a parting shot of wine.

Calangute to Madgaon on minibus. The kind bus driver ensured that bike taxi driver didn’t take more than enough from me. Wandered into the AC Lounge at Madgaon Railway Station. Loved it… Three lady tourists were poring over the map of India. Great conversation starter – Is that the map of India? All three gave me a ‘you don’t know India on a map????’ look. Soon we were talking, even took their snap. And that’s when I came up with the not so great conversation ender – What time is your train? Never seen anybody so shocked. Apparently they had forgotten that they were to catch a train. The ladies ran for dear life. I enjoyed an expansive shower as I made myself home at the lounge. Met with two elderly couples from Jodhpur who were touring South India. They were telling how Jodhpur is such a beautiful place to visit. It seems that the water there is sweeter compared to brackish water in other parts of Rajasthan. A while later, I cut my finger while fiddling in my backpack. The two ladies swarmed over me as I sucked on the cut finger. They were kind enough to lend me Boroplus and band aid. I dozed off to sleep, after requesting the lounge attendant to wake me up in time for my train. Soon the 2619 Mumbai – Mangalore Matsyagandha Express came chugging into Platform 1 at around 1am, almost half an hour late.

To view more snaps from Goa, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Goa' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Friday, 22 Dec 2006: Mangalore Siesta

Got into the Matsyagandha Express, a train that once met with a nasty accident on the Konkan Railway route a few years ago. The 437km ride promised to be uneventful, till I met a family who had inadvertently booked tickets for the previous day and realized their folly when they boarded the train. The good Samaritan in me burst forth like a blooming flower and I gave them my berth. And soon, I was trying to sleep, in container rack where they store blankets and pillows in an AC coach. Woke up early just as Matsyagandha left Udupi around 4.30am. There were like a million stars in the sky. Ok, probably a thousand? But loved the view… just amazing. Matsyagandha trundled into Mangalore around 6.30 in the morning. Took a few snaps of the Erode WDM2 being shunted, before hitting the reservation office at Mangalore Railway Station to book a ticket to Cannanore (Kannur) in Kerala. Was told by the lady at the counter that it was better to buy it from the regular ticket counter on the day of the journey. Checked into the Hotel Hindusthan. Took a well-deserved break. Watched the animation movie ‘Open Season’ at an Adlabs theatre at the hep Bharath mall in Mangalore. Did some shopping before hitting bed. MTV blaring as always.

Saturday, 23 Dec 2006: Wandering Ministrel in Mangalore

Got to Mangalore Railway Station early morning. Boarded the Mangalore – Coimbatore passenger train for the 132km ride. Soon the compartment changed into a carnival ground with dudes around me belting old hindi songs and me providing accompaniment on my dhol. The gang of crooners got down at Kanhagad, while I continued with my ride. Reached Cannanore around noon. Called up my buddy with whom I was travel with from then on. Wondered if we should hit Rajasthan or go somewhere nearby – may be Coorg or Kodaikanal. Decided to head to Kodaikanal to spend X’mas. Took a bus to get to his medical college in Pariyaram, Cannanore. We set out in the evening back to Cannanore. Got to the railway station where we witnessed a pickpocket being caught red-handed. Our train was still a few hours away. Watched a Malayalam movie ‘Smart City’ in a ‘multiplex’ called Saritha. Got back to the station for our train that would lead us to Kodaikanal. I dozed off on the platform bench serenaded by mosquitoes…

To view more snaps from Kerala, click on http://new.photos.yahoo.com/schmoozeby/
Type 'Kerala' in the 'search tags' field in the top right corner and click 'Go'.

Sunday, 24 Dec 2006: Disaster at Pollachi!

The 6628 Chennai – Mangalore West Coast Express snaked into Cannanore at midnight. Got ourselves seats in a first class coupe, as AC and sleeper classes were full. We reached Podanur Junction in the wee hours of morning. Had to change trains and board the metre gauge passenger that would take us from Podanur to Palani. A hundred people gathered around the station building to board this train and the railway authorities held back the train by over 20 minutes to allow everybody to entrain.

Meanwhile I requested the driver of the metre gauge passenger if I could take a snap of the train, only to be flatly refused. We got ourselves first class seats on the passenger train which was headed by a Ponmalai-based (ex-Golden Rock, Trichy) YDM4 which turned out to be a mother of a smoker. Both I and my buddy hung out of the train snapping up the scenery – a million hues of green! We soon made a grand entry into Pollachi Junction. Devoured the yummy vadas (rice cakes) sold on the platform. Ventured to take snaps of an incoming passenger train.

Was promptly booked by the duty station master, who was joined by the driver of our passenger train who complained that I still took pics in spite of being warned by him. The duty SMR turned a shade red when he asked me if I was a terrorist… I tried to bask in the glory. He finally asked me to show him my ID. He cooled down once he saw my innocent mug shot in my passport. Forget about causing terror, he must have made out that I can’t even kill a fly properly. For all the uninitiated rail fans out there, it’s illegal to shoot trains in India, especially on railway premises. You can get booked / get your camera confiscated / or cool your heels behind bars, if you get caught by the Railway Protection Force (RPF). And rail fans still continue taking snaps of trains on Indian Railways. Just visit http://www.irfca.org/ to see for yourself.
Got back into the train and winked at my friend who was busy munching dal vada. We were soon on the ‘rails’ snapping up windmills on the way. Reminded me of Netherlands… the weather was amazing with fog and sunlight playing hide n’ seek.

We reached Palani around 11am. Got to the bus stand and found that the next bus to Kodaikanal from Palani was hours away and that the ride on the government bus was guaranteed to be uncomfortable. Dindigul or Madurai is a better place to get to Kodai than Palani, as it offers you more connections via bus. But as our luck would have it, we soon ran into a couple and an Israeli tourist and teamed up with them and engaged a taxi. If there’s one car that can take six individuals and tons of luggage up to Kodai on a trot, that’s the hardy Hindustan Motors’ Ambassador. The ride on the Palani Hills was pretty exciting as we climbed up the gradient to get to Kodai. The mercury plummeted and fog descended on us. We reached Kodaikanal around 3pm and enlisted the help of a guide to get a room in MYH Green Mountain Lodge. Owing to Christmas & New Year, rooms were very difficult to get in Kodaikanal. We signed up for a full day guided tour of Kodaikanal the next day, followed by a forest tour the day after. We went for a walk around the Kodaikanal Lake, and then took a horse ride.

My steed acted like he would throw me into the lake any minute. My friend got an amazing beast, a 10 month old stallion named Rahul, who was so friendly and docile. Posed for pics with Rahul and then walked the entire perimeter of Kodai Lake which is around 5kms. Went to bed early. The chilly climate did its best to keep us quite awake.

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